Tips for Spotting Wear and Tear on a Used Motorcycle
Shopping for your next motorcycle can be thrilling, but it can also be more than a little intimidating, especially if you’re relatively new to motorcycling or your technical know-how hasn’t reached shade-tree mechanic status. The fear, of course, is not knowing enough to spot the warning signs.
While a thorough inspection by a reputable mechanic is always a good idea, there are several telltale signs of neglect or abuse that even an inexperienced buyer can look for when checking out a prospective motorcycle for the first time.
First Things First
Assuming you’ve already done your due diligence and educated yourself on the model you’re considering, including the known pros and cons of the respective years or trims, and carefully scrutinized the photos and description in the ad, you’re now ready to see and hear the bike in person.
Plan a meeting time and place that won’t be rushed or distracting so you have time to carefully inspect and evaluate the machine. Make sure there’s sufficient daylight, since it’s tough to be thorough in the dark or during a downpour.
When you first approach the motorcycle, take it all in from a distance. Does it look like it did in the ad photos? Circle the machine and look for obvious flaws. A missing turn signal, cracked mirror, mismatched fairing pieces, or dented fuel tank are all obvious things a seller might have avoided showing in the listing photos. They can also provide an immediate indication of the bike’s overall condition and identify a potentially misleading seller. Are there any leaks or signs of fluid on the driveway or garage floor where it is normally parked?
Upon Closer Inspection
If the bike still looks good from 10 feet away, move in and start studying the details. If they weren’t already obvious, look for signs of mishaps on both sides.
A parking-lot tip-over can be heartbreaking for the owner but generally inconsequential to the motorcycle. Minor scuffs on body panels, engine covers, and bar ends may suggest it’s been dropped. Deeper gouges and scuffs that all travel in a uniform direction can indicate a moving incident that resulted in a slide. If there was a significant impact that started or ended the slide, it may have created larger problems than you want to deal with.
Factory plastics should fit uniformly on both sides, with even panel gaps and matching fasteners. If parts are affixed with a variety of Phillips-head and Allen screws, it may suggest that slapdash DIY repairs were made without much attention to detail.
Look for bubbling corrosion under painted metal surfaces, as well as poorly repainted body panels with an “orange peel” appearance or overspray on surrounding surfaces.
Crash Course
If the signs indicate a sizable slide or crash, pay close attention to the frame. Look for messy welds, or creases in the frame that aren’t uniform from one side to the other. Fresh welds, particularly near the steering head or swingarm, can be a dead giveaway of a major crash repair.
If the frame’s alignment appears out of whack to the naked eye, the bike is likely worth no further consideration except as a source of parts. Straddle the bike, stand it upright, and point the front wheel straight ahead. If the handlebars look askew, that may be all you need to see before walking away.
Give the handlebars a wiggle. A clunk may suggest worn-out steering-head bearings. Play in the handlebars when you hold the wheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions can also indicate worn bearings.
Maintenance Evaluation
Assuming there are no obvious signs of a crash, it’s time to evaluate the motorcycle’s maintenance history and condition. Ideally, the seller will have comprehensive receipts and records to support any maintenance claims. However, many DIY riders do a fastidious job of maintaining their motorcycles with care and quality parts, and it usually shows.
What condition is the chain in? If it’s clean and properly lubricated, that’s a good sign. Is there an appropriate amount of slack in the chain? How worn are the rear sprocket teeth? None of these issues necessarily needs to be a deal breaker, but they can provide an initial glimpse into how well the bike has been cared for and serviced.
If the bike you’re considering is belt-driven, the belt should be in good condition, with no missing teeth, frays, or cracks in the rubber. Shaft-drive bikes often have a center stand, which makes it convenient to check for rear-wheel play. If there’s any clunking or seepage at the hub, that can signal costly repairs.
With the front brake applied, push down on the handlebars to compress the front forks. They should move smoothly, but if oil leaks out, at least one of the fork seals needs to be replaced. It’s not a major repair, but it is necessary and can provide a good point for negotiation.
Bouncing the rear suspension should result in one smooth rebound, and the motorcycle shouldn’t remain compressed or continue bouncing.
Have aftermarket parts been installed? If so, is the wiring untidy or, worse, exposed? Have the parts been improperly attached or caused damage by rubbing? Are they quality parts or cheap knockoffs that diminish the bike’s value?
Consumption of the Consumables
Even on low-mileage bikes, or motorcycles with tires that show little wear, the rubber can still age to the point that it becomes a safety issue. Look for obvious signs such as cracks in the sidewalls, but also check the DOT date code on both the front and rear tires. If they’re more than six years old, they may be due for replacement regardless of tread wear.
On relatively new tires, it’s still a good idea to look for uneven wear, which can indicate an alignment issue, as well as plugs—or, worse, a nail stuck in the rubber. Move the bike a full tire rotation to identify if there are any flat spots, which would suggest it has been sitting for long periods of time.
Brake pads thinner than a couple of millimeters are ready to be replaced, while rotors should not have corrosion, deep scoring or a blue tint from excessive heat. Many bikes have a translucent brake-fluid reservoir. If the fluid appears very dark or opaque, it’s overdue for replacement.
When you squeeze the brakes, the lever or pedal should feel firm, not spongy.
If the engine oil visible through the inspection window, or on the dipstick, depending on the motorcycle, looks dark brown or milky, it’s at least due for a change but may also indicate larger internal problems. Open the fuel tank and check for rust-colored fuel or obvious corrosion. That’s a red flag, since rust can contaminate the fuel system, including the carburetors or fuel injectors.
Now Start It Up
Finally, after everything else is done, it’s time to fire it up. This should be a cold start, since a prewarmed engine can hide hard starting and other telltale signs of neglect or internal problems. any warning lights appearing on the dash will require further inspection and discussion. Be wary of the owner’s diagnosis, as it may not be accurate.
Blue smoke from the exhaust after the engine warms up means it’s consuming oil, while persistent white smoke after warm-up may indicate coolant entering the combustion chamber and a possible head-gasket problem. Ideally, the bike will start easily from cold, without throttle, and settle into a steady idle.
The engine shouldn’t make loud knocking or rattling noises, unless it has a dry clutch, as found on many Ducati models.
While the motorcycle is idling, check the horn and make sure the electrical system keeps the high- and low-beam headlights consistent and bright at a fast idle. Check the gauges or display, brake light, and turn signals, and confirm that the kill switch works.
Test Ride
Finally, if you’re satisfied with the inspection so far, ask the owner if it’s possible to take a test ride. This may require you to provide your driver’s license or even a deposit, but it is important to identify that the bike is in sufficiently good health to warrant further negotiation. Even then, a serious buyer may want to have a certified mechanic perform a final inspection for additional peace of mind.
Jeff Wilson
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