If you’ve ever been to Southeast Asia, you’ll know how integral scooters are to personal and professional transportation in that part of the world. Not just for individuals, but for workers and entire families. A scooter takes the place of a car, pickup truck, SUV, and minivan – all of which would be far too expensive and inconvenient for most people to operate. Small displacement scooters are nimble, mechanically simple, and inexpensive to operate, while also allowing access to areas where other vehicles simply wouldn’t be able to fit.
Recently traveling to Thailand for a two-week vacation, I was able to experience the two-wheeled culture firsthand in the heart of Bangkok, then on the islands of Koh Samui and Koh Pha Ngan.
Renting a scooter is a great way to get around whether you’re visiting a massive, congested city or one of the country’s exotic islands. We witnessed many bandaged-up tourists during our trip, so it is best to deliberately approach the transportation option with respect and caution.
I’ve complied a few recommendations based on my observations and personal experience. Thankfully we returned home safely and without the all-too-common hospital visit and road rash adorned by those who weren’t as lucky.
Given that I am accustomed to piloting full-sized motorcycles of various sizes and performance credentials on both roads and racetracks, and would also be riding two-up, I was prepared to get the biggest bike available. I was surprised when the gentleman at the shop suggested I go for a smaller bike rather than attempting to upsell me with a more expensive option. “You won’t be able to go fast no matter what you’re riding,” he aptly explained, “But you’ll want to be able to turn and stop quickly.” I would soon find out just how right he was. I couldn’t very well choose the smallest one on the lot, so we upgraded to the Honda Click 160.
Honda makes a wide variety of scooters for different markets. While this particular model isn’t offered in North America, but it’s as common as a Honda Civic in that part of the world.
The Click’s liquid-cooled, four-stroke 157 cc engine makes a measly 15.2 hp at 8,500 rpm and 10 lb-ft of torque at 7,000 rpm. It has an automatic transmission, keyless ignition, and a 1.5 gal fuel tank. The under-seat storage perfectly fits two open face helmets. It’s small and nimble with simple controls that are easy to operate. We chose that same model as our travel companion in multiple locations, some of which had higher mileage and seen more abuse than others – which is an excellent segue to the next point.
Rental scooters get ridden hard by people who don’t respect them, or often even know how to ride. They frequently get dropped and crashed, only to be dusted off and rented to the next person to walk through the door.
Completing a pre-ride inspection can prevent you from paying for existing damage but also help identify issues that make you keep walking to the next rental shop, which won’t be far away. Ensure the bike has sufficient tire tread and that lights, brake levers, turn signals, throttle, and horn are all operational. Don’t be afraid to take it for a quick spin before signing on the dotted line. I returned two separate scooters over the course of our trip because the brakes were absolutely cooked. The islands of Koh Samui and Koh Pha Ngan have steep hills, sandy corners, plenty of potholes and lots of inexperienced riders, so good brakes are your friend.
Planning our trip to Thailand, we came across dozens of scams – related to everything from travel insurance and visas to e-Sim cards and scooter rentals. Businesses are happy to take your money, but refunds are difficult when you live on the other side of the globe.
Rather than booking online, I waited until we arrived in the area we’d be staying and scoped out the businesses and bikes in person. Hotels will have their preferred vendors, but likely because they are related or get a kickback, not because they have the best bikes or service.
Take pictures and video of existing damage to avoid getting charged for something you didn’t do. Some vendors will ask for a passport as collateral rather than taking a credit card because they prefer to be paid in cash.
Check your credit card statements when you get home to confirm you don’t have any incorrect, duplicate or bogus charges which happen all too frequently.
The rules state that you should have an International Driver’s License with a motorcycle endorsement to rent and ride a scooter. Vendors will rent to virtually anyone, so it’s up to you to ensure you’re following the rules in case you get pulled over or experience an incident.
Travel insurance companies have a clause for what they refer to as High-Risk activities, so be sure to consult your preferred vendor to confirm coverage. You may not be covered by their policy if you find yourself in the hospital and need to extend your stay.
Given my prior experience and research, I was prepared to don more clothing than I ended up wearing during our rides. Helmets are mandatory but few people wear them, particularly on the islands.
In addition to people seemingly having a higher tolerance for risk while on vacation, the climate is such that sun or heat stroke are more immediate dangers than the potential of a collision or unscheduled dismount. Most tourists seemed to ride in shorts and sandals, if that. Bathing suits and bare feet are common riding attire. At the very least, one should wear eye protection, a helmet, gloves with sufficient ventilation, and closed toe shoes.
Mike Tyson is famous for saying, “Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the face.” Typically, I’m one to follow the rules of the road and demonstrate proper riding etiquette, but all of that immediately went out the window the moment we set off from the shop where we picked up the bike. Once you’re in the mix, it’s all about survival so you must go with the flow.
There is no right of way observed. Nobody seemed to be stopping at stop signs or signalling. Trucks commonly pulled out to pass with the expectation that oncoming vehicles move out of the way to prevent a head-on collision. Basically, Southeast Asia is akin to the Wild West. There might be rules, but nobody follows them.
Once highly illegal and heavily enforced, cannabis dispensaries are not more common than convenience stores across the country. Based on some of the riding we witnessed, people may very well have been riding under the influence. It’s probably not a good idea to be one of them.
After dark, the roads become pure, unadulterated madness. Hordes of scooters, tuk-tuks, and taxis, typically pickup trucks with benches in the bed, swarm the city streets with reckless abandon. We opted to limit our riding during the day and take a tuk-tuk, rideshare or taxi in the evening so we could enjoy ourselves without the stress of the journey.
My best advice for riding a scooter in Thailand is to remain alert, sober, and vigilant. Ride within your abilities and enjoy the chaos.