Monument Valley on a Harley-Davidson Road Glide
Very few places in the United States are as iconic as Monument Valley. It has been the backdrop of countless Western films, from Stagecoach to The Searchers. It was also a memorable backdrop in the modern classic Forrest Gump. It was even the setting for scenes in the legendary film Easy Rider. Beyond the silver screen, the cover art for Neil Peart’s (drummer for the 1980s–1990s Canadian rock band Rush) book Ghost Rider features his 1994 BMW R 1100 GS in the valley.
Whichever pop culture touchstone is invoked in your mind by the famous buttes of Monument Valley, nothing does it justice compared to riding through the valley on your own bike. It’s well worth investing a few days or even a week to explore the area to really appreciate what a special place it is.
Over the past decade, I’ve been through Monument Valley more times than I can count—most recently in the summer of 2024 on my 2011 Harley-Davidson Road Glide Ultra.
Monument Valley History
A little background before we get started: Monument Valley is officially in northern Arizona, though the land on which it sits is Navajo Nation reservation land that straddles the border with Utah. Being on reservation territory can lead to some confusion about the local time, as the reservation itself does not observe daylight saving time. So be warned. Make sure you check the local time very closely if you plan to be somewhere at a specific time.
The valley sits at over 5,000 ft of elevation, which means it can get quite chilly in the winter, especially overnight. The iconic buttes that feature in every image of the valley are the remnants of millennia of erosion. Water and wind have carved away the soil that surrounded them after the sediment from nearby mountain erosion settled into sedimentary rock layers. Literally 50 million years of weather created this spectacular landscape, which is arguably unmatched at this scale anywhere else on the planet.
The Surrounding Area
Before exploring the valley proper, it’s worth mentioning a few other visit-worthy treasures in the vicinity of the valley.
About two hours east, in neighboring New Mexico, is another famous butte, Shiprock. If you are approaching from the east, Shiprock is not far off the beaten path. It makes for a stunning photo stop, especially at sunset. Even more so if you happen to have a drone.
A little closer, but still east of the valley, is the Four Corners Monument—famous for being the only place in the U.S. where four states meet (Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, and Utah). Be prepared to pay a token fee to the local Navajo Tribal Council to visit the actual monument, as it sits on Indigenous land.
Coming from this direction, you’ll undoubtedly pass through Bluff, Utah. If you do, stop in at Twin Rocks Cafe for a meal—you will not be disappointed.
Page, Arizona, is two hours to the west of the valley and is also worthy of a visit. One of the larger cities in the region, it is typically seen as a gateway for boaters to Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area in Utah. But it is also home to some of the most famous slot canyons, which, with proper Native guides, can be visited on foot. Just south of the city proper is also the iconic and often photographed Horseshoe Bend—an especially nice place to watch the sun set. If you plan to overnight in Page, Grand Canyon Brewing and Distillery is a great place for food and drink.
Finally, Grand Canyon National Park sits about three hours southwest of Monument Valley. It’s hard to imagine being this close to the Grand Canyon and not visiting (more on that in a future article).
Monument Valley
To get into Monument Valley, you will pick up Highway 163, which is the only road that runs through the valley. You can turn onto 163 either at Kayenta, Arizona, about 25 mi to the southwest, or near Mexican Hat, Utah, which is about 25 mi to the northeast. In either case, be sure to gas up, as those are the last fuel stops along the route.
If coming in from Mexican Hat, you will, just as the buttes of the valley are coming into view, arrive at what is now known as Forrest Gump Point. While it is generously signposted, you won’t need the signs, as the crowds of parked cars and influencers holding selfie sticks will be crowding the pull-offs along the route. Slow down and exercise caution while riding through this area, as many of the tourists along the route pay more attention to getting a photo where Forrest stopped running than to other motorists traveling along the road. From Kayenta, the iconic buttes will rise from the horizon as you ride northeast.
From either direction, you could ride straight through and still gain an amazing appreciation of the landscape. I do recommend, however, that you make time to pull into the Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park and enjoy a guided tour of the 17 mi loop drive that goes into the park itself. Motorcycles, even adventure bikes ideally suited to the semi-maintained gravel and sand surface, are not permitted. It’s worth it to get into the interior of the valley and see things up close and personal.
For those on off-road-ready bikes, the nearby Valley of the Gods Scenic Drive and the Moki Dugway are well worth exploring to get an even better sense of the rugged landscape. Be prepared for steep grades and loose surfaces.
For a multi-day trip, you can choose to stay in one of the nearby communities, but your best option is to overnight in the valley itself. Choices for accommodation are somewhat limited, with Goulding’s Lodge partway up the ridge on the west side of 163, or The View Hotel co-located within the tribal park on the east side. Both are pricey given the prime locations, but they are well maintained and feature onsite restaurants.
For those willing and able, there are inexpensive camping choices, including a campsite co-managed by The View Hotel right in the heart of the valley which is where I stayed the last time I rode through. It was one of the most comfortable nights I have spent in my tent—perched on the hillside, facing the most iconic of views, on a level patch of soft sand.
By staying in the valley, you have the opportunity to enjoy a spectacular sunset and sunrise, as well as the dark skies and stars that light up the night sky.
Given its remote location and proximity to other amazing places, Monument Valley will likely to be only a part of a larger trip. One visit is likely to only whet your appetite. Once you get a taste of the valley, you’ll undoubtedly be making plans to return.
Mark Keating
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