Moto Travel Spotlight: Big Bend National Park
They say “Everything’s bigger in Texas.” The second largest state in the country (next to Alaska), and dwarfing any other within the lower 48 at more than one and a half times the area of California, nothing drives home its sheer size more than riding a motorcycle across it. Within the Lone Star State, there’s arguably no better off-the-beaten-path destination than Big Bend National Park. My last trip there was aboard my beloved 2005 Harley-Davidson Road King Custom.
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A Landscape Steeped in History
The land that now makes up Big Bend has been settled for millennia. First by Native American tribes, then through Spanish exploration beginning in the 1500s. After the Mexican-American War in the mid-1800s, Texan settlers arrived to ranch and mine the land.
Less than a century later, Big Bend was officially protected after both state and federal governments recognized the region’s unique biodiversity and sought to preserve it. Today, the park covers more than 1,200 square miles of varied terrain that stretches from harsh desert to jagged mountain ridges. The southern edge runs nearly 120 miles along the Rio Grande, forming a natural border with Mexico.
The Journey Is Half the Fun
Getting to the park is half the adventure. No matter where you’re coming from, it takes time and commitment to reach this remote corner of Texas. El Paso lies 300 miles northwest; San Antonio is 400 miles east. Even if you’re already “in the area,” from the closest point on Interstate 10, the park is still about three hours south.
In spite of, or perhaps because of, the remoteness, any route into the park is worth the effort. Along the way, you’ll pass through small communities that make great jumping-off points for a multi-day visit: Fort Davis, Alpine, Marathon, and Marfa among them.
If you have the time, approach from the west. My favorite route really captures the rugged essence of the Texan-Mexican border and adds to the overall experience. From Marfa, head south on Route 67 to the border town of Presidio, then follow Route 170 east for nearly 100 miles before arriving at Panther Junction, the park’s central hub. The twisting highway snakes through rugged hills and river valleys, with views of the Rio Grande glinting beside you to the south.
Ghost Town Spirit in Terlingua
Along this route, you’ll pass through Terlingua. Often called a ghost town, it is located just outside the park’s western boundary. Once a silver-mining boomtown in the years after the Mexican-American War, Terlingua still bears traces of its history, especially in its haunting hillside cemetery.
While the park offers campgrounds and a hotel within its boundaries, I prefer to stay in Terlingua. Since I’m there to ride, the few extra miles of “commuting” each morning are hardly a chore. The town has small motels, campsites, and a handful of great restaurants. My favorite being the Starlight Theatre Restaurant and Saloon. I’m not alone in that, so get there early during busy travel times.
There are plenty of reasons people visit Big Bend, but for motorcyclists, the main draw is the more than 100 miles of scenic paved roads, not counting the extensive backcountry trails. Adventure, dual sport, and off-road riders can explore another 160 miles of dirt routes crisscrossing the landscape.
Using Panther Junction as your hub, you can ride east, north, or west and easily lose track of time exploring. Just remember to fuel up often as gas stations are few and far between, and it’s easy to underestimate the distances.
History Preserved in the Desert
Since gaining national park status, development within Big Bend’s borders has remained minimal. Yet along the main routes, you’ll find well-preserved remnants of early Native American sites and European settlements.
Off the bike, there’s no shortage of hiking. For the adventurous, the Window Trail in the Chisos Basin offers a rewarding out-and-back trek. It’s about six miles round-trip with some strenuous climbing, but the sunset views are spectacular. For something shorter but no less scenic, try the Boquillas Canyon (1.4-mile) or Santa Elena Canyon (1.7-mile) trails. Both reveal the immense power of the Rio Grande and the dramatic geology it carved through the region.
Bring your passport, and you can even make a short day trip across the river to the Mexican village of Boquillas for authentic (and inexpensive) food and handmade crafts from local vendors. Just check the hours first as the border crossing is only open on select days during daylight hours.
The Darkest Skies in Texas
Because Big Bend is so far removed from urban centers, light pollution is virtually nonexistent. On clear nights, the sky comes alive with stars, especially in late spring through early autumn when the Milky Way is most visible. Be warned, the summer heat can be intense, so riders may prefer visiting in the cooler shoulder seasons or even winter months.
Worth Every Mile
Big Bend might seem far from everything, but that’s exactly what makes it special. Whenever my travels take me through Texas, I carve out a couple of days to make the trek south. Because no matter how many times I go, Big Bend always feels like the ultimate ride to the edge of nowhere.
Mark Keating
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