In Search of Sun: Southern California Winter Road Trip
There are few roads that scream “Road Trip!” louder than the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH). A roughly 650 mile long stretch of road wedged between the Coastal Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, California’s SR 1 is chock full of inspirational views and timeless attractions that can bring a tear to the eye of even the most dispassionate and jaded of motorcyclists. And, despite the occasional rock slide that requires a detour off the main route, it draws millions of people annually – like bees to honey.
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I was lucky enough to drive the PCH (for the second time) as an escape from the cold weather in the northeast. My ride was a 2018 Wicked Red Harley-Davidson Road Glide Special, courtesy of a one-way rental between Las Vegas and San Diego. The four-day loop, including the PCH, delivered the necessary dose of wind therapy to keep me going through the remaining cold and dark season.
Day One: Death Valley
My route, while ostensibly built around the PCH, included some other great riding destinations. Landing in Las Vegas, my first stop was Death Valley National Park, a few hours west. Renowned as being the hottest, driest, and lowest National Park in the United States, Death Valley is definitely worthy of a side trip if you find yourself remotely close to it. It is more inviting, (albeit still hot), during the winter months.
With limited time to explore the park, I made a stop at Badwater Basin, the lowest point in the Continental United States at 282 feet below sea level, followed by Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, and Zabriskie Point. A beautiful overlook of carved out canyons, it is an essential locale to enjoy the soft light of the setting sun over the valley.
After that short tour, I settled in for dinner at the Last Kind Words Saloon in Furnace Creek and a welcome night in my tent at the nearby Furnace Creek Campground.
Day Two: Yosemite
The second day of riding was a long one. My destination was San Francisco, via Yosemite National Park – a roughly 500 mile ride that would take around nine hours. I was careful to check the weather to ensure my route was open due to the potential for snow to close access roads into the backside of Yosemite. Thankfully, luck was on my side, so after exiting Death Valley, I picked up US 395 north along the interior California valley that parallels the Sierra Nevada mountains.
After a quick stop to see the unique tufa towers at Mono Lake, I turned up the Tioga Road, following its curves through a combination of tight canyons and open country into Yosemite. Yosemite Valley includes a 20 mile asphalt loop of the main valley floor – where the biggest risk is rear-ending other tourists gazing up at the iconic views of El Capitan, Half Dome and Yosemite Falls. Having been before, I took one quick spin around the loop, then continued west to the coast, giving back all the elevation I’d gained (and then some).
San Francisco is one of my favourite cities in the U.S.. Although I had traveled there numerous times on business, it was an unusual pleasure to be there as a moto-tourist. I arrived into the city late, so time to explore was limited.
Nonetheless, I stopped in at Boudin Bakery on Fisherman’s Wharf. After warming myself up with a delicious chowder served in a sourdough bowl, I rode across the Golden Gate Bridge to the Bicentennial Campground. A relatively unknown camping option, it is located on the Marin Headland that is part of the larger Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Of all the places I’ve pitched a tent, this was one of the best, as it offers spectacular views of the San Francisco skyline outlined by the silhouette of the Golden Gate bridge. All the better given a site (unserviced) cost a mere $25! Finding my site in the dark was the biggest challenge of the day.
Day Three: Pacific Coast Highway Time
From San Francisco, the most popular section of the PCH runs over 550 miles south towards San Diego. Thankfully the full length of the PCH was open, but this is not always the case. Landslides being a common nuisance, you should always check ahead at potential road closures to plan your route accordingly. I left Marin County early, retracing my route across the Golden Gate bridge before sunrise. Leaving early meant I could escape the city before any heavy traffic built up and enjoy the spectacular city views.
Many choose to break up the PCH into a multi-day journey, but I prefer to log more miles per day. As such, my goal upon leaving San Francisco was to reach Borrego Springs. Some 600 miles south, Borrego Springs is located inland of San Diego. With no other plans other than to simply enjoy the ride, this was entirely doable. Getting there requires traversing a forested high-elevation mountain range before a steep descent into a hot, arid desert.
I stopped from time to time for a photo at the major landmarks, passing through Santa Cruz, Monterey, and Carmel on the way to Bixby Bridge. The most beautiful stretch of coast is Big Sur which runs 90 miles from Carmel to San Simeon and lives up to its reputation in every way.
By late afternoon I had passed through Santa Barbara and was approaching Neptune’s Net – a seafood restaurant whose claim to fame is being featured in the first Fast and the Furious film. Its reputation as a must-visit dining location seems to be in spite of the quality of the food. After dinner, I completed the ride to Borrego, making a small detour off the most direct route to ride the seemingly endless twisties of the Mulholland Highway.
Pro Tip: Be prepared for traffic and the multitudes of speed traps looking to catch out the unaware along the Mulholland. Arriving well after dark into the Anza-Borrego desert landscape in which Borrego Springs is located, the temperatures had dropped dramatically. While I was quite chilled upon arrival, it was nothing that my first warm (and indoor!) bed in a couple nights couldn’t fix. The area was the first location in the state to join the International Dark Sky Community. Dedicated to preserving the pristine night skies from light pollution, local ordinances ensure visitors have a clear view of the stars.
Day Four: Borrego Springs to San Diego
Early the following morning, I woke up to get some sunrise shots of the famous sculptures in the area. Larger than life iron creatures emerge from the rugged desert landscape. Getting a chance to see and photograph these art installations was one of the core reasons I chose to detour inland to Borrego. The other was the opportunity to ride the “Glass Elevator” – a lesser known cousin of the Palms-to-Pines Scenic byway that terminates at Palm Springs (an hour to the north).
Also known as the “Montezuma Grade”, the pass was originally built in the 20th century as a stage coach route. Ascending 4,000 feet over 31.6 miles, the winding road allows for an immensely enjoyable ride that is rewarded with spectacular views of the desert once reaching the summit.
By late morning, I was dropping off my rental at San Diego Harley-Davidson where I changed back into my civvies and made my way to the Gaslamp Quarter of San Diego for lunch before catching my flight home.
All in, my (extra) long weekend ride from Las Vegas to San Francisco to San Diego via the Pacific Coast Highway was roughly 1,400 miles. With more time comes the opportunity to stop and explore the areas through which the beautiful and scenic roads pass as there are many points of interest along the way. No matter how long or short you make a trip, exploring any or all of the Pacific Coast Highway is always a great option for a riding destination.
Mark Keating
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