Hole in One
I have a 1982 Yamaha Maxim XJ 650 Maxim. I recently discovered that there is a large hole in the right side muffler. I am thinking that the smartest thing to do might be to just replace the whole exhaust system.
After shopping several parts websites, I have found a couple of systems for my year make and model.
There are 4 into 1 system's and 4 into 2 systems. What are the pros and cons to either system' I would like to do the work myself, but don't want to get part way into it and discover that one of them requires carburetor adjustments that I am not skilled enough to complete. My local dealers didn't seem very eager to do any exhaust system work and referred me to various salvage yards in the area. Can you offer any advice please'
No name (Via e-mail)
A complete explanation of exhaust system theory and pipe design is to broad a subject to address in this forum. The short version is that 4-1 pipes generally, but not always provide a bit more performance than a four into two, design, but by no means is that a hard and fast rule.
The same situation applies to jetting, if the pipe is sold as a direct, OEM replacement exhaust, chances are that no jetting will be required, but again, that's not carved in stone. And that's especially true if the pipe you choose is a markedly different design or has less restrictive mufflers. In those cases I can almost promise you that some rejetting work will be required to make the bike run properly. The pipes manufacturer, as opposed to the seller should be able to fill in any blank areas as far as the jetting goes, so be prepared to do a little homework, should you decide that an aftermarket accessory pipe is the way you want to go.
The painless solution would be to find a good used factory system, so taking a few hours to contact salvage yards or surfing eBay or Craig's list may be time well spent.
Slipping towards Sommer
Hi Mark,
I am considering buying a '73 Kawasaki 175 for my wife to learn to ride on. The
owner says the clutch is slipping. Does that mean the clutch needs replacement'
Where might I find one' Or, how can I fix the one that's on the bike'
Thank you,
- Paul Sommer (via e-mail)
The first thing I would do is make sure the clutch is properly adjusted and has the correct amount of lever free play. However, given the age of the bike and the circumstances, my bet is that you'll probably end up replacing the clutch. Allow me to digress and explain that while a slipping clutch can sometimes be salvaged, at least temporarily by deglazing the plates and shimming the springs, in the main it's rarely worth the effort to do so.
Generally once the clutch is worn to the point where it's slipping your best bet is to just bite the bullet and replace the plates and springs. As to where to buy the replacement parts I'd start at the local Kawasaki dealer, those clutches were used in a variety of bikes built through the 80's (and probably later), if they can't help you, then contact Barnett, www.barnettclutches.com, they should have everything you'll need in stock.
Forked Up
Good morning, Mark
As a long-time reader and admirer of your knowledge, I hope you can help me where the local shop guys are stumped. I am rebuilding a rather tired but complete rust-bucket 125 Hodaka Wombat I found in a barn. The forks were beyond repair so I went to a local motorcycle salvage yard looking for something I could get to work. I found a really nice pair of forks with a tag indicating they were from an RD 400 Yamaha. The price was right, they were the right length, and I could make them work, so I was happy. I showed them to a buddy with several RD's. He took one look at them and said they were not from an RD and the local Yamaha dealer said he did not know what they came off. They are Kayaba's with 32mm uppers; the lowers have 346L and 346 R stamped on each leg respectively. They have small rubber caps on the top of the fork legs and it appears that there is some type of lock ring holding in the spring assembly, but for the life of me I cannot figure out how to release them. I can find no obvious way to add fluid short of taking them apart and adding fluid from the bottom then putting them back together. I tried hunting down Kayaba or KYB shocks on the internet but I am a broken down old man and the combination of lack of interest and knowledge in internet searches is a drawback. Any help or direction you can give me would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
Christopher Gustin (via e-mail)
From one broken down old guy to another thanks for the kind words. It sounds to me like you have a set of early 70's mid-size Suzuki forks. To release the retainer, set the fork on something solid or place the upper tube in a vise with smooth jaws. Since you've never done this before, and the forks have been sitting a while it may be wise to have a friend help. Remove the rubber cap, what you'll see is the upper spring retainer, which is held in by a snap ring. Using a dowel or large punch, press down on the center of the retainer. As you compress the retainer against the fork spring you'll be able to slip a small pick or screwdriver blade under the lock ring and pries it out. This usually takes three hands hence the need for a friend. Once the ring is out slowly release the retainer. Be careful here, the spring tension can push them out with a vengeance, the first time I did one it shot across the shop and hit one of the old grumps I worked with in the back of the neck and I had to buy him lunch (at Tippys Tacos) to calm him down.
What makes it tricky, especially on an old set of forks that may have been sitting since 1975 or so is that the retainer has an O ring on the bottom to seal it. Sometimes the O ring causes the retainer to stick in the tube until you wiggle it and then pop, out it comes and usually rolls under a workbench where you can't find it or dings something like your forehead, a freshly painted tank or a grumpy co-workers neck. By now though those springs have probably lost some of their tension, and in any event 32's don't have a lot of punch, but please be careful. BTW they used those type of forks on everything up to the GT550 triple, and they actually worked well for the era, one of the reasons, they used them, outside of cost, was so that ham fisted mechanics couldn't cross thread the retainers and strip the threads in the fork tube.
What about MZ'
Hello! Mark, I have come across a fellow with two 1974 MZ TS150s, both have under 20 original miles and are in excellent condition! He is asking $1500 for both; I really don't know anything about MZ motorcycles. Are they throwaway motorcycles or should I consider them a rare motorcycle to add to my growing collection' What would you do Mark! Buy them or pass on them.
Thanks,
Ned (via e-mail)
Hi Ned,
Despite my propensity to acquire anything with my name on it, I'd suggest
you pass. I'm sure I'll get a ton of letters from the hordes of MZ collectors
throughout the land, but in my opinion a 150 MZ, which for those of you not
familiar with them, was a go to work hack produced in the former Deutsche
Demokratische Republik, or East Germany, isn't a particularly desirable
motorcycle, and why anyone would want one, let alone two is beyond me. Now if
they were 250's, and especially if they were ISDT Replica 250's, it'd be a
different story.
Mark Zimmerman
Zimmeemr@aol.com
Walneck's Classic Cycle Trader , June 2009
