For me, nothing says America quite like the red rock canyons, arches, bluffs and hoodoos of southern Utah. Between Interstate 70 and the Arizona border, the Beehive state claims five national parks - Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef , Bryce Canyon and Zion; at least four national monuments (including the Colorado National Monument east of Moab); and four national forests and recreation areas. Excellent state parks also dot the region. When a group of German riders visited us in April, we decided to take them there. By then, the snow was gone from the high mountain passes and Moab and Escalante, where we planned on staying, wouldn't be too hot. Since everyone was riding a KLR or other dual-sport, it would be a dirt and pavement extravaganza.

Leaving Salt Lake

From Salt Lake City, we set off on U.S. 40 south to Midway, then east on Utah 32. The plan was to take Utah 35 over Wolf Creek Summit (elevation 9,500 feet) and continue south on U.S. 191 at Duchesne. No such luck.

But at Francis, we learned that snow wasn't gone from Wolf Creek pass and we had to turn around. During a quick coffee stop, we suddenly found ourselves watching a high-speed car chase, followed by the suspect being forced to lie face down with guns on him after he stepped out of the stolen vehicle. Despite the odds against it, that same scene repeated itself a few hours later at our lunch stop. No wonder Europeans think we live in a violent country.

After the turnoff onto U.S. 191 at Duchesne, we rode through the coal-mining towns of Helper and Price - called the "city of castles" because of the surrounding buttes -- to I-70. The wind was so strong across the flats that I had to lean like a drunken sailor on shore leave just to stay upright. On I-70, it was only 25 miles to the Moab exit. As we clicked off the last 30 miles, the landscape turned from dusty brown to deep red.

Parks Galore

Moab is a recreation center for outdoor types -- riders, bicyclists, rafters, climbers and hikers. For motorcyclists, it's like Disneyland: With so many different rides, you have to return again and again.

Canyonlands National Park was our first stop, so after breakfast the next day at the Moab Diner, we took U.S. 191 north 12 miles to the turnoff at the junction of 191 and Utah 313. A quick detour to Dead Horse Point State Park rewarded us with dramatic views of the Colorado River canyon 2,000 feet below. Why Dead Horse Point? A narrow neck of land leads to the point, and legend has it that horses were driven across it into a corral, where they died of thirst. Nicely undulating paved roads lead to the Canyonlands and more spectacular views of the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers from Grand View Point. Since tourists weren't swarming yet, we had the place to ourselves. Below us, we watched motorcycles the size of ants moving along the White Rim Trail near the edge of the canyon cliff. This 90-mile sandstone track is a long one-day or easier two-day overnight ride for adventure riders. Next time'.

Our German friends rarely get to ride dirt trails at home, so they jumped at the chance to return to Moab from Canyonlands via the Schafer Trail,a twisty dirt road descending to the canyon floor. Switchbacks and water crossings kept things interesting and only one bike took a gentle rest on its side on the way down...

It's a Dirty Business but

More red rock awaited us the next day north of Moab as we took scenic Utah 128 through narrow canyons lining the Colorado River. I joined a group of riders on a pavement loop from Cisco to Fruita on I-70, then through the Colorado National Monument to Grand Junction before a fast ride south along the Dolores River on Colorado 141. The red-rock formations were so fascinating that I had to remind myself to pay attention to the road.

We stopped in Gateway, a former two-horse town that now boasts the new Gateway Canyons "destination" resort. The place was thoughtful enough to put steel kickstand rest plates in the parking lot for motorcyclists. The resort also has a classic car museum.

Further south, at Vancorum, we turned west onto 90/46 to Bedrock, Paradox and La Sal Junction. For us, a stop to sit on the porch of the old-fashioned Bedrock store is always a must.

A second group turned off of Utah 128 onto a dirt-and-gravel road near Moab. After splashing through several water crossings, these riders backtracked and followed us on the pavement. Since my husband Lynn knows a dirt-road shortcut cutting off miles of highway between Uruvan and Paradox, his group returned to Moab before mine!

We reserved our last day in Moab for the Arches National Park, home to a collection of arch formations carved by erosion over millions of years. Balanced Rock, the Windows (including the "parade of elephants"), Delicate Arch viewpoint, and a short walk to Landscape Arch were among the stops. You can easily spend a day and not see everything.

On to Escalante

On our fourth day, we said goodbye to Moab and turned the bikes south on 191 toward Escalante. A few of us took a quick tour of Hole in the Rock, a home turned museum that an eccentric fellow built into a huge boulder. We planned to take U.S. 191 to highway 95 (a bicentennial scenic highway), and then route 276 to the ferry across Lake Powell. However, the ferry was closed for repairs, forcing us to stay on 95 and suffer miles of great pavement, uninterrupted red-rock views, and almost no cars in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. We passed by Cheese Box and Jacob's Chair Buttes (looking just like their names imply) and stopped for a cold drink at remote Fry Canyon Lodge.

There we met an Englishman traveling the U.S. with his wife. He said he'd been to most states but thought Utah was the most beautiful. Concerned about the remoteness, he asked the lodge owner what would happen if he had a heart attack on one of the back roads through the recreation area. "That's easy," she said. "We'd get out the shovel and start digging." It's worth the tour through this recreation area just to see Hite Bridge crossing the back waters of Lake Powell. The span is so elegantly designed that it heightens the canyon's natural beauty (no pun intended). At Hanksville, we rode west on Utah 24 to Torrey. The highway winds through Capitol Reef National Park, so named because some dome-like monolithic rocks there resemble the U.S. capitol building. This park was new to us and it's on the list for a return visit.

Temperatures dropped after we turned south on highway 12 and ascended a 9,200 foot summit through Dixie National Forest. The stands of aspen trees increased - as well as snow by the side of the road. Brrrr!

Descending to Boulder, we entered Grand Escalante Staircase National Monument where the landscape changed dramatically. Red rock switched to smooth white and yellow granite of infinite shapes and sizes as far as I could see. Highway 12 is carved into and over the boulders, and the hogs' back near Boulder - a last stretch on this 311-mile ride to Escalante - seemed suspended in air.

Seeing in Kodachrome

For years, I've wanted to see the hoodoos in Bryce Canyon National Park. These fantastically carved and variegated pillars of sandstone rock are formed by erosion in the canyon. Riding from Escalante to Bryce on 12, we stopped at Kodachrome Basin State Park, where the purples, pinks, oranges and yellows would make a peacock jealous.

At Bryce, we climbed the park road to its highest point and then backtracked to the entrance, stopping at turnouts on the way. Hoodoos were everywhere, and at each turnout I got off my BMW F650 to take pictures. After the first few stops, my companions stayed on their bikes. They were hoodooed out. Escalante is just a few motels, stores and restaurants but is on the brink of busting open given its location. Stop at the Kiva Koffeehouse Bed and Breakfast on highway 12 north of town. Completed in 1998 of local materials, it's a Boulder to see a wonderland of red rock caves, arches, grottos and unique patterns. Walking into one slot canyon was like stepping into a John Ford western: "It's a dead end'we'll have to shoot our way out!"

The Snows of May

Our last overnight was in Panguitch, Utah, where Cowboy's Smoke House delivers a great steak. To get there, we retraced 12 to U.S. 89, stopping for coffee at the intersection with 14 at Long Valley Junction. Dark clouds were gathering over the 9,000 foot elevation pass on 14. Sure enough, snow flakes were flying when we reached the summit. Fortunately, the snow stuck to our helmet visors, not to the road.

In seven days, we had covered nearly 2,000 miles. To end our Red Rock adventure, what better way than a farewell dinner at Cowboy's with good friends and steaks you could cut with butter knives? When the Germans boarded their plane home, they were suffering scenery overload.

Perri Capell is a writer based in Idaho. She owns a KLR 650, Honda Transalp, Yamaha TDM and a BMW F650.

Copyright 2012 CycleTrader.com. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.